-- Shivaratri decorations, Aurohalli --
Shivaratri (Aurohalli) -- 02/12/10
(Click here to view all photographs on Flickr)
We are received at Ambuja's house for Shivaratri. As usual
her mother serves food for quite a few people, sitting on
the floor around the room. The hosts will eat afterwards.
I have brought my laptop so am able to show the many pictures
from last week, most of which had been taken by the children
themselves. I teach Lavannia the basics of how to use the
laptop, and show her many pictures of Giryamma and family,
whose names she somehow memorizes (perhaps some day they
could meet?) The women ask a lot of questions to Cecile.
Ambuja's mother would possibly want to work once Chittu
gets older, asks about Jaya our maid. Ambuja wonders
if she could communicate via email with a friend from
Switzerland, but there is no connection anywhere in the
village. This fuels Cecile's plan to perhaps bring
internet access here somehow.
Ambuja's father takes me around the village to look at the
decorations, and the temples (there are seven temples in the
village I think, in spite of its small size!). A lot of people
will stay up all night for the festival. Here, a singing /
dancing event has been cancelled, but the decorations are
beautiful, giving a strange Las Vegas feel to the village.
-- On the left, Hyemanth, Chittu and Rakesh --
-- Rakesh, posing in front of the Shivaratri decorations --
Arun's Birthday (Dodabalapuram) -- 02/13/10
(Click here to view all photographs on Flickr)
Nellurahalli Slums --------
Sunday 02/14/10 -- Nellurahalli, with Anand Gopinath ---
E. Trail - Borewell road to the post office (meet Anand) -
Back to Nellurahalli - into the slums by the white temple -
Back same way.
We're ready to go, but I realize that I've lost the stack
of pictures of Shiv's tentdwellers. The photos must
have been taken, I guess I'll need to reprint.
Kiran and Malikarjun walk us back into town. They make
fun of my two words of Telugu. We tell them that we'd
love to come here and play ball with all the kids, and
this idea proves very popular.
I run back through the E. Trail, through the Hamlet.
As I'm about to reach Palm Meadows on the Main Road,
I'm stopped by a man and three women. These are members
of Shiv's tent community (I keep running into them
it seems!). They are carrying their pictures which
somehow have made it to them. The women, in spite
of their humble condition, are beautifully dressed.
Encounters in the fog -- 02/15/10
Main Road - Siddhapura - Dunmore House area - Nellurhalli
ECC route - Lake Trail - Pattandur Agrahara - back to
Nellurahalli govt school
(Click here to view all photographs on Flickr)
Later, along the Lake Trail in Pattandur, I meet a group
of children, visibly very poor. We wave at each other.
They first ask me for money, which I don't have. Instead,
I respectfully take out the camera, and
we take a few pictures, some of which I ask them to click
themselves, having knelt at their level.
I try to understand where they live, but communication
is difficult, they speaking only Kannada.
They seem so happy now, seeing their photo
on the small screen of the camera.
I leave them joyful, hoping I will be fortunate
to meet them again, to give them these potentially marvelous
pictures.
But it's now getting late and I'm supposed to meet Adi
at the Nellurahalli school to discuss our plans with them.
As I'm picking up the pace down towards Nellurahalli, I pass
yet again one of Shiv's tent dwellers working on the side
of the road (they're everywhere!), and pause briefly to
shake his hand. A little later, I'm run into Adi in his
car, somewhat lost, who then follows me to the school.
There, the kids are gathered outside the classrooms while
a teacher disciplines them with a thin stick. I instantly
spot Malikarjun, Gauramma and Diaramma (from the 1st
community) among the uniformed crowd, who start giggling.
We prudently make eye contact with the teacher who ushers
us in. All the kids, as if rehearsed, declaim in
unison "Good Morning Sir!". The school master is not
here, but Adi takes his phone number so we can continue
our planning.
Giryamma leaves (I) -- 02/18/10
W. Trail - Dunmore house area - Through Nellurahalli / Pattandur
(Click here to view all photographs on Flickr)
Giryamma leaves (II) -- 02/20/10
W. Trail - Dunmore house area.
(Click here to view all photographs on Flickr)
As promised, I have brought nearly 150 photographs.
I have kept Giryamma's family's pictures in a separate
stack, and have printed some extra large.
I call Jayanti back. She's apparently lost.
Promising to come back,
Hanumanta, Kiran and I set off on foot
on the dirt roads to find her. We eventually make
it to the Nellurahalli school where we finally spot
her, with Maddhavarao. To their great excitement,
we take the two boys in the car, and park back by the
temple. From there, Jayanti and Madhavarao are first
introduced
to the children of the 3rd community (adults are gone),
then finally to Lakshmi and Anjapa. Giryamma is
gone, apparently to buy milk in the village. She eventually
appears, and I am relieved that Jayanti and Madhavarao
will get to meet her. To my surprise, the kids feed
one of the little cats with the milk.
They invite us inside their shack, serve us
some snacks, taking many pictures, including the
images of the gods on the metal walls. We're introduced
for the first time next door, where a smaller room
serves as a kitchen. Water is being kept warm over
smoldering ashes. With Jayanti's and Madhavarao's
help, we gather more and more details about their
impending departure. Hanumanta takes the stack of
photos out, proudly shows to Jayanti and Madhavarao
the images of his father, Wannapa (the pictures
with the running shoes).
Football, Bicycle and Measurements -- 02/21/10
E. Trail - Through Nellurahalli - Dirt trails
to the Dunmore house area. Back same way.
(Click here to view all photographs on Flickr)
Preparations... -- 02/23, 02/25/10
Shopping at Big Bazaar -- 02/25/10
(Click here to view all photographs on Flickr)
In Nellurahalli, I've decided to access the Dunmore
house area by the side dirt road, so as to reac directly
Giryamma's community without passing through
the others. It's a little sneaky, but I want to avoid
having to deny the other kids. So we park along the
dirt road, and take the small trail by the tree which
leads to the break in the wall by Giryamma's "room".
We actually cross Hanumanta, in school uniform for
the first time (why? does he ever go to school?),
who's running an errand in the village. Xavier urges
him to hurry up.
We arrive directly through the small
break in the wall to Giryamma's community,
immediately greeted by the children. I notice that
the girls clothes have been freshly washed, still
slightly humid it seems. In a now familiar motiv,
the children first tell us that Durgamma has gone
to work in Udi, but there she is, soon appearing splendid
in her Saree. "Superrr", she smiles, seeing
me for the first time in a shirt. But the kids excitedly
tell me, Wannapa, Wannapa, and I rush to meet
their father. This is only the second time I see him,
and I am struck again by the man's beauty, his powerful
features, his expressive face, one of those rare people
to possess a distinct presence.
Everyone is getting
ready, washing faces (I too look at myself in the plastic
mirror, while everyone makes fun of my hair), applying
the Tikka to their foreheads. Hanumanta has
returned and quickly changes as well, and too my
amazement, we're actually ready pretty much on time.
We walk to the wall, where sadly I have gently send
back Mahesh and Bimesh who have followed us. On the
small trail, I run ahead to take a group picture,
but Giryamma and Lakshmi have run with me. They're
excited to see the two cars waiting for them.
We board, Giryamma in Jayanti's car, the others
in ours.
By the temple, Wannapa asks us to stop. We need to
pick up Nagamma the older daughter, who frankly I had
forgotten about. Hanumanta runs to find her. We wait
a bit, Wannapa shouts after him. Nagamma eventually
comes, but she's followed by Kiran. I am heartbroken
to ask my friend to stay behind, try to explain
as best I can. He accepts this. Nagamma is introduced
in Jayanti's car.
After some maneuvering, we reach the entrance of Big
Bazaar.
Wannapa has asked us to drop them by the temple, from
where they'll walk back. Once out of the cars, we don't
quite know how to end this emotional day. I ask Xavier
to translate, "you people have been my very best
friends, I will miss the children, calling as I pass,
Bhaya, Bhaya." He repeats in Kannada, but uses
the English best friends-u in the sentence.
Durgamma, carrying Anjapa in her arms, says that
the little boy is asking me to come to his room.
But it's late enough and I know I'm expected home, so
I decline.
Farewell to Giryamma (I) -- 02/27/10
Palm Meadows - E. Trail - through the Hamlet -
Nellurahalli - Dirt road to 1st community -
Spend time in all three settlements -
Back through Nellurahalli - W. Trail.
(Click here to view all photographs on Flickr)
Farewell to Giryamma (II) -- 02/28/10
Palm Meadows - W. Trail - Dunmore House entrance
to the slums -
(Click here to view all photographs on Flickr)
A man, standing by his motorbike carrying a disproportionate
load of tin pots and pans, is in negotiation with Durgamma
and Wannapa. They're contemplating buying a large round
metal box, which they show me, indicating it costs 400Rs.
They settle the price, and spend a little more time checking
their new acquisition. Wannapa invites me to sit at his
side, on the plank just outside their shack. He asks me
to wait there, as Durgamma, helped by the children, is
preparing a meal for me. They need something from Nellurahalli
and with my authorisation, Hanumanta rushes there on the
bike. In the meantime, I see Nagamma cutting tomatoes in
their small kitchen.
Sitting with Wannapa, I witness the traffic of many
itinerant vendors who crisscross the area, selling stuff
to the slumdwellers. In particular, women walk the trail
carrying large suitcases on their heads, full of
merchandise. One stops by us, opens the suitcase revealing
hundreds of Bangles and Bracelets, which Nagamma then
Giryamma spend some time examining.
Wannapa and I speak somehow. I confirm that he will
be coming back after dropping his family in the village,
and probably will continue to live here alone. He shows
me a small pocket notebook that has the name of his
employer, some cement company. Durgamma comes out, faster
than I had imagined, Nashta is ready.
She invites us inside. A floor mat has been prepared for
me on the dirt ground. We sit all together in the dark
hot room. The rice plate is truely delicious, I warmly
compliment Durgamma. I am happy
that, contrary to custom, they eat a little with me, instead
of waiting for me to finish. I savour these last moments
of intimacy with them, marvel at small details, their little
cat, Lakshmi lying on the ground playing with a broken
toy cell phone. To my surprise, Durgamma grabs Anjapa
who's been a little fussy to breastfeed the three
year old boy. I've finished my abundant plate of rice,
and true to custom wash my right hand in the tin plate,
then drink some of the water. I try my best letting out
a burp of satisfaction, not quite like them, but a good
effort nonetheless.
They had packed my stuff inside here for me in a bag while
I had accompanied Cecile. I pick it up.
It is time to go.
I sit again on the plank while tying my shoes. I am finally
overwhelmed by tears. I can't look at them in the eye, and
focus on my shoes, on the dirt ground. But all I see are Giryamma's
naked dirty feet, and
my big fat tears hitting the ground, creating little
thick dirt splashes. What do these
tears mean to them? Do I look like I pity them, I who value
them most? Can
they understand how their friendship has affected me,
or has this turned ridiculous?
Am I allowed tears, would they
scorn my rich man's sorrow, I who have everything
in life? If I love them so much, shouldn't I offer
tangible help rather than cry stupidly, or has my friendship
been a strong enough bond? They respectfully let me recompose
myself. But embarassingly looking down at the red ground
are Giryamma's naked dirty feet again, Giryamma, the first
person I met here, she who invited me every day into the slums'
foreboding environment, she who would always invent the so
many ways by which we could be dearest friends, relating
together
against all odds. There will never be another Giryamma.
I attempt to shake
it off, mumbling something in Hindi, get up forcefully.
Looking at them, needing a decent way to part,
I timidly propose a hug, first walk to
Durgamma, checking carefully with Wannapa that this
will be an acceptable gesture,
and give her an awkward hug. Then
the girls Lakshmi and Giryamma,
Hanumanta Bhai, even Wannapa, and finally
Anjapa, who humorously resists
the embrace by lying on the ground,
stiff as a stick.
I then saddle the bike, pedal away on the trail,
like Orpheus not looking back.
Holi, the festival of colors -- 02/28/10
Palm Meadows - through Imadahalli - Trails
to Ajgondanahalli - Timanalli - More trails
to Aurohalli - Back roughly the same way: 1:11:00
(Click here to view all photographs on Flickr)
-- Roopa and her brother Arun, in Dodabalapuram --
The next morning, I'm back in Aurohalli as I had promised Roopa,
to take her to Dodabalapuram for her brother's birthday. Today,
Jayanthi is coming with us, although she hasn't slept at all
last night passing the festival in the Ashram. Only Roopa and
Neetra are coming, although at the last minute, Lavannia joins
us also from Ambuja's family (in spite of her mother's initial
disapproval).
As we leave the village, on the side of the country road,
a woman is lying, a young woman and a child at her side. We
slow down. The woman, in visible pain, is squirming on the
ground, while shrieking horribly. Should we take her to the
hospital? Xavier and Neetra ask in Kannada: Her husband, drunk,
has beaten her. Noone seems to thing too much of it, so we
proceed, leaving this haunting vision which taints
the naïve idyllic purity with which my imagination
has adorned the village.
Unlike last time, we take the main road to Dodabalapuram
(like going to the airport) and end up there in about 1h30
(last time the prettier back roads had taken us
2h30). Roopa hasn't come back to see her father since our
previous trip, last September. He greets us into his house.
We cut the cake western style, sing happy birthday
in several languages, followed by a delicious Indian meal
which we eat on the floor. Although I thought I had this
down, I make an embarassing mess around me eating the rice
with my fingers. Here too I have brought the laptop, and
we're able to show all the photos, while teaching some of
the kids its rudimentary usage (Lavannia remembers everything
from last night, including Giryamma and Laskhmi's names).
After the meal, Roopa's father, like last time, offers me
Paan. Jayanthi has it too, although she's able to repeat
a few times, as it's not as customary for woman to have
it. I make an effort to chew it better this time keeping
it in my mouth, but suddenly the substance gets to my head
and I start sweating profusely. This strong dizziness,
according to Jayanthi, improves my Hindi.
We then take a walk outside, like last time, in the
half agricultural half industrialized landscape, which is
actually is rather devoid of charm. We stop by a textile
factory, out of which Roopa's favorite uncle, who works
here, comes to hug her.
Before leaving, we take a final picture, for which
Roopa dresses up in a Saree.
-- Naraenaswami, Roopa's father --
Roopa in a Saree --
Lavannia, on the way back,
asks if she could visit my house. We all stop for a drink.
Always looking for something new, I plug in the piano,
start playing in the background, parts of the Waldstein,
Schubert's D.960... Neetra smiles beautifully,
using one of the rare Telugu words the villagers
have managed to teach me, Bagundi...
(nice...). This leads to a new fantasy, where I imagine
myself playing for the villagers and slumdwellers. For some
reason I feel that Schubert's music would be most apt
to touch them. Bagundi...
-- Giryamma, Lakshmi, Anjapa --
-- Ishwaraja, Malikarjun --
Wednesday 02/10/10 ---
Dunmore House -- Nellurahalli - Pattandur, direct to ITPL
Time: 0:28:12
(Click here to view all photographs on Flickr)
A particularly fruitful session through the DUnmore house slums.
First, I run into Malikarjun, and right away give him the camera.
This leads to a great photo session in the 1st community. I let
him do what he wants, but also guide him in a few cases. I meet
his father for the first time, a man with little Hindi, and try
to explain my school plan. He seems to understand, confirms the
date.
Eventually, Giryamma, Lakshmi and Anjapa arrive here. Are they
coming from me, or do they have other business here? I want
Gyriamma to take pictures, but she refuses, pointing to her
dirty hands. I insist, pull out my towel from my pocket,
reassure her that this is ok, ask her to please take the
camera, help her wipe her hands. She eventually concedes
and takes a few pictures as well.
We then walk together to the 2nd community. On the way,
we play in the mounds of dirt, take funny pictures of them
working in the dirt. She collects various objects found on
the ground, small pieces of metal, nails, which she carries
in her dress. Hanumanta has also joined us. He has found a
light bulb, but appears broken so he tosses it away
(surprisingly, it doesn't break). I hand him over the camera
after having wiped his hands as well. They are all really
good operating the camera.
In the second community, Durgapa is also there, and a few
other men and women, some who appear new. Durgapa speaks,
but we eventually burst out laughing since it's so hard
to communicate. Here too I advise Hanumanta and Giryamma
on how to take pictures. We get Nagamma to laugh for the
pictures. Kiran joins us from the third community, we're
so happy to see each other. He too can manipulate the
camera, and it's great to see them working as a group.
The 3rd community man who had invited me for breakfast
last week has also arrived. I try to find out through
Kiran if he has been given his children's pictures, but
I'm not getting through.
Eventually, the red truck arrives, with Malikarjun hanging
from one of the doors. We pose with the truck, e.g. Gyriamma
hanging from the back. They leave for work, waving. Pointing
at Durgamma (who has just returned from the water tank with
laundry), I explain to Kiran that she has taught me to count
in Kannada. We repeat the lesson, and Durgamma joins us.
But I need to go to work. I pretext being late. Kiran runs
with me, fast, to the third community. "Khana kaya?", he
asks me, asking me once again for breakfast. But I don't
have time. Although I'd love to go pay my respects to
Santoshamma, I don't spend much time here, and say
goodbye to Kiran.
A little later running through Nellurahalli, I'm passed
by the red truck, and we all wave at each other, probably
an intriguing site. I run fast up into Pattandur, I'm
briefly bothered by a pack of dogs, with no harm. I show
off my mastery of such incidents. As I'm approaching
ITPL, I think I recognize a familiar silhouette, crouched
on the side of the road sweeping the dirt. "Shiv?" I approach
timidly. It is him, and soon a few of the other tent dwellers
appraoch me, we shake hands. So this is where they work,
at least today. I point to the top of the building right
in front of us, this is my work. The pictures aren't ready
yet, but I'll come SUnday I promise.
(Click here to view all photographs on Flickr)
-- Anand in the 3rd slum community --
Time: 0:45:38
Mileage: 5 Miles
I meet with Anand near the post office, from where we run
together into Nellurahalli. Before reaching the slums, we
run into Durgapa and a few others coming from a dirt trail.
They offer us tea but we decline. Durgapa will work today,
in Hoodi, for about an hour it seems. We enter the slums
through the 3rd community, by the white temple.
I have the usual stack of pictures, although the most
recent ones haven't been printed yet (and I'm asked
about them). Kiran comes from a distance to meet us,
I hand him over the camera again. We're invited into
his shack where the men want me to take a photo of
a small icon of the virgin Mary, hanging against the
metal walls.
Hanumanta and Kiran take us to the 2nd community, where
we meet Durgamma's family. Both Giryamma and Lakshmi have
new outfits today, a change from these flower dresses
that I've always see them wear. From a distance we hear
Anjapa crying, Hanumanta explains with gestures that he
must have been slapped by his mother. He's actually
taking a bath outside, Durgamma washing him from a
plastic bucket. A man on a bike passes through the slums
calling, selling chicken.
Malikarjun also joins us. I let the kids take the pictures.
They are by now perfectly familiar with the handling of
the camera. A man (whom I've seen often but whose name
I don't know) strikes funny action hero poses.
Coming back home, I'll discover on my camera a wonderful
picture of a young man caught inside his shack. Will I ever
know who took it? (A week later, while showing the print,
I discover it was Hanumanta. The picture is of Krishna's
elder brother).
-- Slumdweller - This marvelous enigmatic image
taken by Hanumanta --
-- Durgamma - Anjapa washing --
Giryamma in a new outfit --
-- Road workers from Shiv's group, near Palm Meadows --
Time: 0:51:33
Mileage: 5.8 Miles
-- Giryamma --
-- Mahesh (photo by Giryamma) --
What started as a clear day has suddenly been wrapped in
a dense fog.
Approaching the Dunmore House plain, I can't even see the
slums from a distance, and wonder if I'll just pass through
unheeded today. It's actually chily humid under this thick
blanket, which actually provides welcome relief from the early
summer heat. But past the first community, I hear my name
from a distance. It's Malikarjun who's calling me, catches
up to me. "Did you bring a ball?" Not today...
Hanumanta, Lakshmi and Anjapa run to meet me. "Phot, Phot", asks
Anjapa striking poses. I lie that I haven't brought the camera.
They question my conspicuous DHL enveloppe, but I explain that
I'm not carrying pictures today (this at least is true).
I take the little trail right by the shacks into town. Emerging
from the fog, by the big tree, is a familiar figure. It's
Giryamma, returning from Nellurhalli with a small plastic
bags of Groceries, accompanied by Mahesh, a boy from the
3rd community. She is wearing her new outfit again, although
new is a manner of speech: the shirt is ragged and torned
in places, exposing her to the foggy chill, coughing frequently.
But they're in great spirits neverthless today,
and I guide them both to
take pictures of each other (Giryamma no longer needs much
guidance!). Giryamma, visibly very satisfied looking at
the pictures, repeats with
conviction: Nice! Nice!
Did I teach her this English word?
-- Giryamma --
-- Children along the "lake trail", Pattandur --
As we're driving to IPTL through the back road,
I notice that group of children from earlier, walking among the
crowd. Where are they going? Will I ever see them
again?
Time: 0:30:22
Pace: 8'30" / mile
Mileage: 3.6 Miles
Wght: 154
A dark day.
A beautiful sunny day. The heat has been steadily increasing
towards the hot months, but it's still tempered in the morning
by a subtle chill.
I'm not planning on anything fancy today,
just run through the
Dunmore House area, then the long way through
ECC and Pattandur to work.
The slums are quiet, but I don't plan to stop anyway,
have no pictures to take or distribute. I do get
called by Durgapa's children just past the 2nd community, but
barely slow down to wave back.
As I approach the water point between the two settlements,
I recognize Hanumanta, sitting bare chested as if
perched on the edge of a chasm. He looks sullen, not noticing
me at first, perhaps having been discplined by Durgamma who's
washing laundry a few yards away. She calls me with a smile.
I explain to them that I'm only passing by, won't have the
photos until Sunday. She tries to answer, gesturing in
Kannada, perhaps trying to use her rare words of Hindi,
as I seem to recognize gao, "village". This brings
me to a halt, as the meaning of this dawns on me. There
is no mistaking her gestures, they are moving away.
I am overwhelmed by an instant sense of loss. So this is
the moment that I had feared. Kiran has run to me from the
third community, and I call upon his limited Hindi to
confirm the news. It takes some time to get through the
details. In two Sundays, in the afternoon, they will
leave by bus, for their village, far, not to
come back. I am so visibly discouraged that Durgamma
offers me coffee with sollicitude.
A bit despondent, in spite of not having much time,
I accept, and Durgamma gestures Hanumanta to take me
back to the shack. Kiran him and I walk together, all
energy gone. so this is the moment I had feared. Kiran
looks at my emotion, Mere Dost I try to explain,
and we both laugh at my tears. (Who could hope for
a better friend than Kiran?). I knew this would come
to an end. Durgamma's family had remained here remarkably
stable while many had come and gone. I push away the
overwhelming memories of the many
magical mornings with them,
the children's voice heralding my arrival
from a distance, Giryamma's
endless inventions... Hanumanta comes out of the shack
with hot coffee in a tin cup. I'm happy to see Durgapa,
express my sorrow as best I can. Giryamma and Lakshmi
are here, while Anjapa still sleeps. I can't quite
look at them. This particular family has somehow
exemplified my extraordinary journey in India. A deepest
friendship against all odds. We had so much more to share,
many more silly dreams boiling in my head, more
things to explore. The promise
of a deeper bond dies in its infancy. In spite of no common
language, we have spent the best times together, playing,
laughing, somehow managing to talk. I have given them
their photos, they have fed me, more than they themselves
would eat. Can it mean as much to them as it has meant
to me? In a trash pile, I notice abandonned one of the
running shoes I had once brought.
Kiran slowly walks me back up the trail. We
pass Durgamma again. At least we have 10 days to say
goodbye. Unlike others, Durgamma's family has given
me a warning of their disappearance. What does this
move mean to them? Are they headed for a better life?
At least Durgamma looked happy when she made the
announcement, but I'll have to come back to understand
more.
Now walking through the 3rd community, seeing
a mother comb her daughter's hair, I can't help hand
over the camera to Kiran, who's still at my side. And
here we are dragged into another photo shoot, Kiran
handling the camera. Slumdwellers wave at us for more,
"Bhaya, Bhaya!" as I'm called here, and in
spite of running late, I have no heart to refuse.
Kiran takes most of the pictures, although when they
get more "serious" (requested by someone important),
he insists that I take them. We humorously fight
over this, "You, You!" - "No, You, You!!..."
Giryamma and Hanumanta have joined us as well, having
walked over from their settlement. I can't quite look
at them in the eye still.
Finally, I break away from the group, sprint
up into Pattandur towards ITPL, dogs better not mess
with me today. I reach work barely on time, burdened
by the sense of loss.
-- Third Settlement Slumdwellers, photos by Kiran Kumar --
-- Giryamma and Hanumanta, in the third settlement,
Nellurhalli slums --
-- Jayanti, with Giryamma's family --
Johann Sebastian Bach -
Chorale Prelude Bwv. 639 "Ich ruf' zu dir, Herr Jesu Christ"
Chorale Prelude Bwv. 659 "Num komm' der Heiden Heiland"
Prélude et Fugue Bwv. 552 "St. Anne"
Time: 0:17:21
Mileage: 2 Miles
After an unusually long dry spell away from the classics,
music has come back, as sole means of expression. Started
digressing with Chopin, I am quickly brought back to Bach, as all music
inevitably leads there, Bach, Beethoven. The
vertiginous assaults of the St. Anne Prelude & Fugue
bring a paroxistic start to the day.
I have felt sick yesterday, struck by a strange dizziness
that wouldn't lift. But the illness I feared hasn't materialized,
and I set off for the Dunmore House early. Under a bright
sunshine, I reach the slums in about 17 minutes (unusually
slow), and that's the end of my running for the day.
-- Kiran --
-- Kiran with Bimesh and Mahesh, Durgapa's sons --
But the settlements are particularly quiet this
Saturday morning, and I pass 1st and 2nd communities
virtually unheeded. The photo distribution therefore
starts in the last settlement, where I'm greeted by
Kiran and Mahesh. Kiran has definitely become my new
partner, accompanying me wherever I go, and always
trusted with the camera. He knows enough Hindi that
we can converse, and even a little English, and in
spite of limited communication exhibits a sharp
sense of humour.
The closed enveloppe containing Durgamma's
family's pictures elicits a lot of questions, and
after letting Kiran photograph the hell out of the
3rd community, we head back on the trail, escorted
by Hanumanta and Durgapa's two sons, who have now
joined us. Back in the shacks, we meet Durgamma,
Giryamma and Lakshmi. We sit in a circle in the
dirt, as I ceremoniously open the enveloppe. I find
some of these images particularly touching, especially
knowing that I'm about to lose these people, and am
happy offering them one by one, feeding off their
reactions. I clarify the mistery of the photo
of the make-up man, which had been taken a week
ago. It is actually Krishna's elder brother,
and the picture was taken by Hanumanta, whom
I warmly congratulate.
With Kiran and Krishna's help, I find out
more about their impending departure, transcribe as
best I can the Kannada in Roman letters, "Gundgurthi"
, in Gurdbarga district. Both Hanumanta
and Anjapa are wearing new clothes. I try to explain
to Durgamma my plan of buying a set of
clothes for the children,
which actually she understands right away,
half joking that I should
buy something for her too. For some reason seeing
my phone she has Hanumanta call Wannapa so I can talk
to him, but inevitably we can't understand much of
each other. She eventually offers me tea and cookies,
which I eat with the children, sitting on the ground.
Durgamma proceeds to lay the clothes in the grass
for drying, while Giryamma, Hanumanta and Kiran
continue to take photograph after photograph.
I call Jayanti, as we had agreed to perhaps meet
here this morning. Having heard of Giryamma's
impending departure, she is eager to meet them.
I give her a few confusing instructions over the
phone.
Meanwhile, it's time for Durgamma to go to
work. In fact, a woman from the 1st community passes
by, and I let the kids photograph us together. We
take funny poses which make the women laugh. They
eventually go, worried about being late, while Kiran
and I walk to the 1st settlement to distribute the
remaining pictures. There we meet Malikarjun's
mother (Malikarjun himself is at school for once)
and sit with her in front of her shack. She loves
the photos, and explains that the Ishwaraja's cat
(featured in some photos) has been eaten by a dog.
-- Giryamma with the working woman from the 1st
settlement --
-- Anjapa and Lakshmi sweeping --
-- Lakshmi --
-- Durgamma's kitchen --
-- Giryamma with Jayanti, inside the room --
TO BE CONTINUED (UNDER DEVELOPMENT):
Durgamma offers me tea and cookies. I later share
my energy bars, although no one seems to really like
them, though eventually Giryamma keeps them.
With Krishna's help, we clarify,
bus fares, 400 / adult, 200 for
kids. Krishna asks me how much I make, but I elude the
question.
Walking along the trail, I notice Kiran's pain. Knee pain.
We meet Jayanti and Madhavarao at the school, take
the two boys fascinated in the car, park by the temple.
Khana Khaya?, we're offered food a few times
as we're walking through the settlements, but
we decline.
As we reach the second community, we see Anjapa
and Lakshmi in a cloud of dust, sweeping the ground
furiously. As we approach, they even pick up the activity.
But where has Giryamma gone?
From inside the shack, a yellow construction vehicle passes
by, JGL, Hanumanta and the kids read from the logo, all proud to
know the letters. (Hanumanta will later write those on the
windshield).
Hanumanta tries to fool me that Giryamma is Lakshmi, but I know
better.
Giryamma frequent cough - We tap her back -
I finally learn Durgapa's sons names, Bimesh and Mahesh.
Anjapa's long hair, Madhavarao explains, is allowed to grow
until it will be offered to the Gods.
Madhavarao explains: The family comes for work during the
off season with the crops. Now having won a little money they
are able to go back.
Anjapa takes off my watch, putting a lot of effort, then
tries putting it back on again. We let him do patiently. He's
breathing hard from the effort. Hanumanta gently helps his brother
only at the very end.
I have as usual knelt and sat in the dirt
with them. The kids
wipe my pants with care, not wanting me to be dirty. My
camera falls in the dirt. I quickly wipe it clean, but
Giryamma not satisfied takes it from me to clean much
more methodically with the cloth of her dress.
Kiran, impatient as usual, wants us to move on. But
Hanumanta has started counting the pictures that we've taken
so far, very fast, in Kannada. This exercise absorbs the
children, Kiran also, who's no longer in a hurry (he even
tells Jayanti ("sisterrr") to be patient). Looks like Hanumanta
is reaching 300, 400, before finally putting his arms up in
the air. Headache! (The actual count will be around 350...)
We finally walk to the first settlement.
Madeomma (Malikarjun and Ishwaraja's mother)
is there sleeping on the ground, in full
sunlight (it's quite hot). We apologize for having waken her up.
She describes that she hasn't been able to go
to work because of a fever - She invites us in for tea,
the girls follow.
-- Inside Madeomma's shack, with Teyamma and Yiramma --
Inside Madeomma's shack -
We sit on small mat, on the dirt floor. She offers
us water, and later tea. Kiran and Hanumanta have also
joined us. As well as
Teyamma, Yiramma, whose names I finally clarify. (I've
always called one of them Gauramma, which must be some other
girl) -
Seeing the photos, Madeomma explains again that
Ishwaraja's cat has been killed by a dog. The boy cried
a lot, couldn't eat for some time -
Inside her shack are more things than DUrgamma's,
pots, utensils, some decoration, the children's orange
backpack hanging against the wall. I point to a large
Teddy Bear, is it one of the children's? A former employer
gave it to them...
It's hot inside. The bustling activity of two little
cats perturbs Jayanti. They are kept here to scare rats.
More information about the trip - Madeomma knows this place
too, and is going there herself but coming back it seems.
Giryamma and her family are going back to land they
actually own,
near Raichur. It seems that they will find family and school
there, live off the land instead of construction work.
We feel relieved for them. No wonder Durgamma looked
happy about the move.
Other people with better Hindi help us understand,
for example the security guard. The place is at the Andhra
border, perhaps 350 km from here. First a train to
Vadi Junction (which deserves most major
metros), then bus to Gundgurthi.
Madeomma too, has kept a full stack of pictures,
and we look at them with nostalgia.
Kiran, asked about not going to school, gets sullen - His head
bent down - How does he feel, is he ashamed?
Malikarjun, Ishwaraja come back - They are very happily
surprised to find us inside -
I find their pictures among the stack, now mixed with
all the old ones. Malikarjun on a bike, Malikarjun on the
red truck. And find those marvelous images of little
Ishwaraja with his cat. But will the pictures
of his lost cat make him sad?
Madeomma silently encourages me with a friendly gaze -
Over Tea, Kiran's jokes -
Kiran: Me, American driver, Jayanti, India driver,
Madhavarao, Kannada driver. We all laugh.
Hanumanta is just barely able to count to ten in English,
garbling the last few numbers. In Kannada? Of course he can
count, he was couting hundreds of photos earlier! -
Shows us an image of a tree, on the wall. In different
languages, Kannada, Telugu, Hindi "Ped". I propose "arbre"
in french, accentuating the "r"s properly, but Kiran
vehemently refuses, "nononono"...
Hindi Bol!, he repeats, refusing to learn any french.
We remember with Malikarjun the small incident at the
school the other day, where the teacher was hitting the kids
with a stick. "To keep us quiet", he explains.
We try to make them sing, Kannada songs, but no one
is volunteering. Finally, Hanumanta, braver, volunteers
a quick song, which sounds like some radio commercial
(he points at the various elements, hair, paper, so
we can understand the Kannada). We all applaud -
Driving the car -
We take the kids for a ride, of course ends up being too
crowded. The Dunmore house dirt trail entrance is actually blocked,
we need to make a precarious U-Turn. So back we go, approaching
the area from the other side (in Nellurahalli), the other dirt
trail, which leads us straight to Malikarjun's settlement. Passing
people. Roll down the windows, roll them back up because of the
dust. Some people amused. A man gives a stern look.
We do a few rounds right around Giryamma's house. Then
we do a second turn taking other kids, disciplining Kiran
to give someone else a turn (Hanumanta has stepped out by
himself). This time we dare an intrusion into town, and
pass by the Nellurahalli school. Teyamma and Yiramma who
both go to school could hardly be any happier.
The rocks on the way, bump into the car -
Malikarjun refers to my house as "room" (limited
vocabulary, or sign of their own tiny living quarters?). He'd
like to come over one day -
We pass a priest along the way - After a brief moment
of realisation, he addresses us a friendly salute.
We finally drop everyone back at Malikarjun's settlement.
To our surprise, the priest walks to us - God is
everywhere, he introduces, then declares that having seen
us earlier has made him happy, he walked here only to meet
us, that someone would spend time with these kids. He describes
his temple, not far from here, invites us over for the future.
Hanumanta cleans the car window, dirty from all the dust,
with a bucket of water. They offer to clean more but we decline.
We write on the dirt on the windows - Hanumanta writes
those same letters again, JPL, from the construction vehicle.
Anjapa wants to write too, I carry him to the window. We
try to write his name, he barely reproduces the letters.
"Tomorrow, Ball!", the boys remind me.
We finally part, taking again the dirt road that
hasn't been kind to Jayanti's car. I am happy that
Jayanti and Madhavarao have come to share this special
day. On the way, we pass the priest again. He gestures,
we offer him a ride, but he only wants to invite us
over to the temple. Another day...
-- Left to right: Bimesh, Giryamma, Lakshmi, Anjapa,
Me, Hanumanta, Mahesh and Kiran --
-- Taking Giryamma's measurements -- (photo by Hanumanta)
With Anand Gopinath -
Time: 0:37:55
Mileage: 4.5 Miles
I am running with a volleyball, which attracts even more
attention than usual from the children along the way.
I stop for a few in the PM Hamlet, explain that we'll
play football in Nellurahalli. As a last minute
inspiration, I have called Anand to join me over there.
Approaching the area, I run into Malikarjun (and
a few of the adults). We walk the dirt trail together,
to his settlement, then to Giryamma's, where we start
playing football. It's quite hot and I have brought
my water belt with me. Malikarjun tries to wear it
but it's definitely too big for his slender frame.
After some time, Hanumanta Malikarjun
and I walk to meet Anand by the temple, calling Kiran
on the way, but unfortunately he's gone. Anand is
lost, and Malikarjun and I run into town still carrying
the ball, until we cross Anand riding his bike.
We take the small shorcut trail back to Giryamma's settlement
(Anand has to carry the bike through the small
opening between the walls). When we come back,
the adults have gone to work (even on a Sunday?) leaving
the kids alone as usual. I am thirsty and wonder if
my water belt has been lost in the agitation, but
Lakshmi and Giryamma have carefully put it away
in front of their shack. Hanumanta complains
that Durgapa has hit him for some reason. I wonder if I've
somehow created this situation and apologize to him.
The ball game doesn't quite pick up as much
as I had hoped, particularly since the area is unusually
quiet today, and interest for the bicycle has overshadowed the
ball game. The boys take turns riding the oversized bike,
and at some point, Hanumanta disappears with it for some
time, such that Anand and Malikarjun have to run after him.
Still, we're playing ball with the littler ones,
although the camera provides its
own usual distraction as well.
Giryamma has further image ideas, which she expresses
with sounds, tchik, tchik, photograph the
children, bouncing the ball, tup, tup, tup...
At some point, as Anand is playing with Bimesh and Mahesh,
I take the opportunity to measure Durgamma's family, to
perhaps offer them clothes before they go. I dutifully
measure the three: Hanumanta 131 cm., Giryamma
124 cm., Lakshmi 109 cm.. Malikarjun,
pleading for new clothes, also insists that he's leaving
for good (didn't his mother say yesterday that they
were coming back?). I measure him also, Malikarjun
130 cm., and Ishwaraja 112 cm.. Hanumanta
helps me with the writing, and writes his name and
his sisters in Kannada, although he seems to struggle
a bit. Malikarjun and Ishwaraja walk into the distance
carrying the ball, much to Hanumanta's chagrin, but I
explain that I had promised the ball to them. When
Anand and I pass the first community as we leave,
the children, all playing, wave goodbye.
-- Lakshmi --
Tues 02/23/10 -- ECC route - Lake Trail
Time: 0:30:38
Pace: 8'30" / mile
Mileage: 3.6 Miles
Beautiful sunny day, early morning (7:30 mtg).
Having no special plans in mind, I haven't taken the camera
(which I'll regret).
Coming through Pattandur, I first meet the "fat woman",
and give her her Rangolli pictures as promised. She's washing
dishes in front of her house, so a young man takes the pictures
for her. Meanwhile, two children have walked up to us, and ask
to see the other pictures. They recognize the little girl on
the bike as their sister. I let them have the photos to give
it to her, they confirm that she leaves in a side alley on
the left, and run off. Only a few meters later, the girl
herself shows up, and I tell her how happy I am that I got
to give her the pictures. She speaks good English, says she's
going to Whitefield School (which I believe is on the way
to Siddhapura). She confirms that her father works at ITPL.
Not having much time, I leave here there, but wished I had
taken the time to walk to her house and meet the family.
Hopefully, this can happen some other time.
Approaching ITPL, I notice the poor little boy with the missing
teeth on the side of the road. I approach, it is indeed him.
What looked like bags on the ground is actually the other
children sleeping in the street. He wakes them up, the older
girl first, looking all sleepy, and another smaller one.
Inside the bags must be other children, although their shapes
are imperceptible. I ask about them, have to mime sleeping.
Somehow, the little boy, who speaks only Kannada, manages
to say that the shape under the bag (probably the smallest
child of the group) has been "cut", but I eventually understand
that his hair has been cut (or will be cut?), probably the
usual ritual act. The little kid is very talkative but I
understand none of it, the girls are more reserved but have
a kind look. I can see that he's making fun of his missing
teeth on the photos, and I indicate that I understand that,
pointing at my own teeth. I ask about their parents, and
whether this is where they would normally sleep, but I am
not understood. (Later, I realize that instead of stupidly
trying to ask in Hindi, I could have just asked "apa" and
"amma".) I really hope to see them again, and resolve never
to run again without the camera, in spite of the overwhelming
number of photos.
-- the homeless children "by the lake", Pattandur --
Wed 02/24/10 -- Dunmore House - Nellurahalli - Pattandur.
Time: 0:31:11
Pace: 8'00" / mile
Mileage: 3.9 Miles
It's early. I don't have much time so I run straight through
the Dunmore House area. But the 1st community is unusually
alive this early morning, and I get called by Malikarjun than
his mother Madeomma. She turns back to get something from
her shack, while in the meantime, Security Guard man waves
to me to sit besides him. Madeomma comes back with a small
piece of paper, with names and a phone number written on
it, but I can't understand what they're talking about. Are
they asking for my number, or Jayanti's? I write my own, but
realize that this mustn't be the satisfactory answer. Out of
time, I leave them.
The 2nd community is dormant, but by the water point, I meet
Durgamma. I explain to her in Hindi that I'll be coming back
a little later, ask her is she'd still be here, but of course
she doesn't understand. The stop at the 1st community has
delayed so I really need to rush. Passing by, I realize
that the tents harboring Shiv's community have been
dismantled, leaving stone footprints on the ground.
I run over into Pattandur
at a faster pace, hardly have any time before my first meeting,
luckily a phone call. On the way, I've looked for the homeless
children, but their sleeping spot from yesterday is empty.
Around 8:30, Xavier meets Jayanti Maddhavarao and I at the ITPL
side door, and we set out back to the slums. We park the car
by the temple and walk into the DUnmore House plain. We're
immediately met by Kiran and a few of the girls (Shuwamma,
Lakshmi), and to my great pleasure, Santoshamma is there. We
salute each other with respect, but to my chagrin, Xavier
finds out that this settlement is about to be dismantled,
that Santoshamma herself will be leaving tomorrow. We confirm
that Kiran won't be moving away, but this itself appears
confusing. Very attached to me, Kiran walks us to the 2nd
community. On the trail, we cross Teyamma and Gauramma
walking to school, in colorful dresses, with their usual
orange backpacks. The question is still whether we'll be able to
meet Durgamma to arrange our shopping plans. One of the
slumdwellers indicates that she has already left for work,
but after the kids have hailed us, she almost
miraculously appears out of her
house, in beautiful green Saree. Xavier explains the whole
situation. We agree that we'll come get them tomorrow at
6pm, to shop for clothes with them. Meanwhile, Malikarjun
has joined us. We shouldn't linger too much, but I still
want to clarify this morning's confusion, so we follow
him to the first community. In fact, Malikarjun, Anumanta
and I race there, Anumanta coming in first. Madeomma produces
a mat so I can sit, and she goes back to get that paper. Finally,
I get it: This is Sounitra's number, that woman I had once met
here, who wants me to call her, so she can invite me to her
house in Nellurahalli. I go OOOOOOHHHHH, and make fun of my
silly incomprehension from this morning. Xavier gathers a
lot of information about these settlements. They are offered
by the construction firms, who own about 200 such sites
in Bangalore. The workers are deployed wherever it makes
sense, and without much warning can be displaced from
one place to the next. I come out of this still unsure
whether this is all going to disappear soon, and most
importantly if I'll be able to keep contact with this
group of people if they move.
I race with the boys again to the 2nd community,
but arrive a distant third because
I can't run with sandals (while they themselves are running
barefeet). As we're waiting for the others, Durgamma asks
for my cellphone to call Wannapa. I hand it over to Anumanta
to dial the number. Realizing that he has disappeared
with it, I call on him, to find that he's gone
in the darkness of the shack to actually see the phone screen.
Durgamma speaks on the phone, which I don't interrupt in spite
of our relative hurry. She hands it over to me, I try to
explain in Hindi, but everyone laughs pointing to Xavier. I
hand him over the phone so they can actually have a
conversation.
Meanwhile, Kiran drags me aside. He mutters words in my
ears that I can't make out at first, then understand
"volley ball", as he's asking me for the same ball that
I have given Malikarjun. Like with Roopa some time back,
I sense that he's in a sad phase of our friendship,
perhaps burdened by the idea that we might lose each other
one day. I tap him on the head, messing up his hair, a
silly funny gesture that restores our good humour. After
confirming several times with Durgamma that tomorrow 6pm
will work, we're escorted back to the car by the three
boys, and explain that today we don't have time to take
them for a ride, which they're remarkably cool with.
Thursday 02/25/10 -- Dunmore house - Direct through
Nellurahalli - Pattandur.
Time: 0:30:52
Pace: 8'00" / mile
Mileage: 3.9 Miles
I come through here mostly for the opportunity to bid farewell
to Santoshamma, who apparently is leaving today. But as I pass
by the 2nd community, I am called by Lakshmi (who's brushing
teeth outside with this black goo), then Anumanta who calls
excitedly pointing to his room, "Wannapa, Wannapa!". Indeed
the father is inside, barely waking up. I salute him but feel
awkward taking him out of bed. Durgamma appears at the door,
fully awake and draped in her green saree.
Coming to the 3rd settlement, I find Santoshamma sitting on
her heels with another woman, both in colorful clothes. Kiran
invites me in, and I direct him to take the women's pictures.
I try to speak to Santoshamma, but she's strangely withdrawn,
as if bewildered. I confirm that she's leaving today, with the
help of other slumdwellers, as she herself doesn't offer much.
I repeat the name of her village a few times, my
prononciation providing ample amusement.
Gnanmitra's brother offers me food, so after a brief
hesitation I enter inside his
shack. A beautiful tall woman is preparing the food which we
all eat together, Sambar and Roti, then rice. For once we're
able to communicate well in Hindi, and the man denies that
this settlement is going to be taken apart. He, as well as
Kiran, will be staying. Kiran takes pictures inside, but the
wife initially refuses the camera, feeling that her clothes
aren't nice enough. Kiran takes the pictures anyway, but I
scold him. In the meantime, Shuwamma has returned from the
water source with a small girl, and is surprised to find
me here. I ask my host for news of his brother Gnanmitra,
and he invites to his village in mid-march (which I doubt
I'll be able to do). I do explain the imminent departure
of my own family.
Outside, I want to pay my last respects to Santoshamma. Kiran
calls inside her house but she has left. I see her later as
I'm running through Nellurahalli, stop to shake her hands,
but she still appears despondent, as if dazed. It's a disappointing
way to part with this woman who had been so kind.
-- Santoshamma, sitting with a friend --
-- Shopping at Big Bazaar, left to right: Hanumanta,
Anjapa, Durgamma, Wannapa and Nagamma --
Thanks to Jayanti's energy, we've decided to take
Durgamma's family for shopping at Big Bazaar, to buy
a set of clothes for each family member before they leave
Bangalore.
The day has been very hectic, and there was some
last minute panic as to whether Xavier would be able
to join us after all. I've frantically arranged for another
possible driver, but would have been very disappointed
if Xavier had missed this. All in all, we do manage to
meet at 6:00 at the ITPL back gate, with Jayanti and
Madhavarao who will be following our car. With all this
agitation, I feel a dreadful knot of anguish in my
stomach, wonder whether that will tarnish the occasion.
Instead of driving straight through Pattandur, We take
the bigger roads by Sai Baba Hospital.
-- Approaching the Dunmore House slums, at dusk --
-- Wannapa --
-- Getting ready, left to right: Wannapa, Anjapa,
Durgamma and Lakshmi --
-- Lakshmi, Giryamma and Anjapa with Jayanti's car --
We drive past Sai Baba again. Thanks to Xavier's
translation, we find out that Wannapa will actually
come back here to work, leaving the family in the village,
where the kids can go to school. Durgamma doesn't
look so well in the car, covering her face with the Sari
cloth (like women do here to fight a bad smell). Upon
my concern, she admits she's too hot, so I turn on the AC
and open her window. She's relieved.
-- Durgamma and Wannapa in the car --
I am a bit worried that perhaps we won't be let in.
Wannapa and Durgamma have put on Chapals, but everyone
else is barefeet. I am fearfully ready to defend my
friends but that doesn't prove necessary. We pass the
usual perfunctory metal detector (which always beeps
unheeded) and are let in. I feel overwhelmed for them
entering the store, attacked by the quantity of
stuff, feeling out of place along them.
We feel timid, but luckily Jayanti springs into action,
directs us to the upper floors where the clothes are.
We squeeze in the small elevator. I prepare them
for the sensation, but this elevator ride proves pretty
mild. We are ushered in the children's clothing aisles.
We're all quiet, still intimidated by this strange
environment. I block other people's gaze, focused
only on living the event through my friends eyes.
Jayanti is guiding us, decides to first outfit the
boys. The store clerks turn out to be very friendly,
and speaking Kannada, are gradually able to connect
with the kids.
First Hanumanta. But they appear a little dumb-struck,
not quite able to choose. I'm trying to involve Durgamma
but she stays back. Hanumanta is given a pant and a bright
striped shirt. The clerks show him a few darker shirts,
which finally breaks his silence, has he clearly prefers
the initial brighter one. Next Anjapa is similarly outfitted.
While this is happening, we also explore a few other
aisles, including a weight rack, but Wannapa is sternly
looking over the children, worried that they might disrupt
something. We move on to the woman's section, for Giryamma
and Lakshmi.
The friendly clerk helps them more and more. The girls
settle on Jeans skirts with shiny ornaments, then Jayanti
takes them to a T-Shirt rack. Durgamma, finally breaking
her silence, says she doesn't want black, and we settle
for purple and pink. The clerk passes the skirt over
Lakshmi's head to try it on. Meanwhile, under Wannapa's
close watch, Anjapa and Hanumanta have proudly taken
over the shopping cart from Madhavarao.
We move to the ladies. Durgamma and Nagamma are
wearing the same Saree today. We spend a short time rummaging
through a stack of colorful Sarees, but they pretty quickly
make their choice. This leaves Wannapa, who first denies
that he wants anything, but we convince him to at least
visit the men's section, on the next floor. Another
elevator ride takes us there, while Jayanti, Madhavarao
and Giryamma have taken the stairs. Wannapa immediately
finds a Lungi (I have never seen him wear Western clothes),
but then the shirt poses problem. We first look at Kurtas
which are too elaborate, then shirts. Wannapa is looking
for a plain white shirt which is actually hard to find,
especially given his slight build. We eventually settle
on a white shirt with discreet stripes.
I take the stairs back down this time, with Lakshmi
holding my hand. I stand in line at the cashier while the
family has gone outside with Xavier, and Jayanti and
Madhavarao look for a few things for the kids whom
we've left behind. Night has fallen. I take a final
family picture outside the store.
-- Lakshmi and Giryamma inside Big Bazaar --
Wannapa, Durgamma and the children set off
on the trail, entering the Dunmore house area, the wide
plain that harbors the slums.
Carrying their Big Bazaar
bags, they disappear into the night.
-- Lakshmi, discovering her pictures, for the last time --
Time: 0:40:37
Mileage: 4.5 Miles
This is the day.
I feel dizzy in the morning, but set out through the longer
way through Nellurahalli to the Dunmore house area. It is
unnaturally hot, as we continue to ramp up to the
Indian summer. I have begged the Photographer at ITPL
yesterday to turn around the prints that same day,
to offer Durgamma the Big Bazaar pictures. The man did it,
I could have kissed him. So I am
carrying a heavy load of photographs in one hand, and the two
caps that Jayanti and Maddhavarao had bought for Malikarjun
and Kiran in the other. No one pays undue attention
in the villages,
used by now to seeing me running carrying all kinds of
crazy crap. I take
the dirt road which leads me straight to the 1st community.
Here, Malikarjun, his mother and the girls greet me. I have
neatly divided the photos in different stacks, and offer
them their own. As usual, someone is disappointed to not
find his photo, today a woman. They eye jealously the
much larger stack that I've brought for Durgamma's family.
They're neverthless happy to recognize
"Auntie Jayanti" and "Uncle Maddhav" on
some of the photos, and pictures from inside the
shacks. I let Malikarjun choose
his cap from the plastic bag. Our trip to Big Bazaar has excited
everyone's imagination, and Madeomma asks insistingly me to take
her family next, pretexting that she too will be leaving
next week, for good.
Malikarjun walks me to the second settlement,
Giryamma's settlement. I know how hard it will be soon to pass
through here, dearly missing the calls of the children,
"Bhaya! Bhaya!", as so many times they've
run to my encounter over the last several months.
Today, we see Hanumanta and Anjapa from a distance,
rummaging through the grass. They've found (or caught?)
a small bird, whose leg is tied to a string, and seems
about to die. But we leave the bird there, called
by Giryamma, Lakshmi and Durgamma.
Durgamma invites me to sit on the wooden plank
in front of the shack, "Kuku" (or whatever it is
in Telugu), but holds me
back an instant while Giryamma picks a piece of
cloth drying on the grass and lays it on the plank.
"Nice", the girl smiles satisfied, using one
of her only English words, probably learnt
from me.
We crowd around the pictures. How not to think
that this is the last time? My final chance to capture their
faces, the amazing excitement in their
voices, our laughs, even when we have no language
to share. Some pictures are particularly popular,
those from Big Bazaar of course, that of Durgamma
regal in her superb yellow saree holding a phone,
and me holding one of the girl's dress, which we
all find hilarious.
Anjapa, who's been sitting on my lap
this whole time, once again takes off my watch. I manage
to get it on his wrist, and ask Durgamma to ask him
for the time. But this makes her realize that she's
running late.
To my great disappointment, Durgamma needs to hurry
to work. She tells me to come back tomorrow as they'll
leave by 4 (she even manages to use the Hindi Char),
then runs down the trail, late for work,
not letting me explain that I had planned on this being
the last day.
I watch her disappear by the white temple, remembering
that same image from a few weeks back,
feeling robbed of the chance to say goodbye.
I remain sitting with the children, deflated. Malikarjun
is taking too many pictures of other slumdwellers but I don't
have the courage to rein him in.
Surprisingly, of all family members Hanumanta is the one
most visibly affected by the separation. I had not
anticipated the boy crying, revealing a sensitivity
that had thus far been partially concealed.
I pass
my arm around his shoulder.
We remain seated some time, crying together, each wiping
his eyes with his own cloth, while Lakshmi
and Giryamma contemplate
us, grave, slightly puzzled. Lakshmi's eyes are lost
in thought, her beautiful face expressing our distress.
In the meantime, Malikarjun continues taking many
photos of this new group of people. Hanumanta and I
can't shake it off, and after a while, I apologize
to the woman, "mere dost...". Malikarjun insists
that we go visit Kiran, so finally we get up. Hanumanta
disappears to get dressed, washing his tears from a bucket.
We walk slowly along the trail, Hanumantha and
I still heavy with sorrow. The boy washes his face
at the water point again, erasing his tears.
We're greeted by Kiran, and a bunch of kids of
the 3rd community, including the girl who lives in the
tent, and the usual Shuwamma, Lakshmi, Mahesh, etc.
Hanumanta walks alone, wearing the plastic bag from
the photos on his head. Here too, the photos are shared.
To my great surprise, Santoshamma appears in the same
colorful Saree. She hasn't left after all, and I confirm
that she now plans to stay (did I misunderstand her last
time?). She's actually quite disastisfied with her
picture from Thursday, but I try to convince her that
it's a superb picture. Kiran has taken over the camera,
runs off shooting many pictures here too. At the edge
of the community, while the group is gathering by
the only remaining tent (the others have been
dismantled),
Hanumanta has sat on the partition wall which delimits
the settlements, not participating.
We walk back to Giryamma's settlement. I stop Hanumanta
who has pulled the black plastic bag all over his head.
I have by now resolved to come back tomorrow, not
able to leave them after all. I reassure them of this,
particularly Hanumantha who has started crying again.
Pressing his hand, I cheer him up
that we have been the best of friends. He walks me
a little way. We pass by where the bird was. Seeing the
empty string, we first think it has broken free, but then
spot the animal partly concealed in the grass.
"Vo mar gaya?", I ask. We poke at the now motionless
body. "Mar gaya", we confirm.
-- Hanumanta, sullen, sitting on a wall --
Time: 0:16:23
Cecile has come with me for this final run into Dunmore
House, following me on the bike. The weather continues
to get warmer, although the morning still offers a subtle
chill which soon will disappear as the warm months take
their grip.
We are first greeted in the first community by
Madeoamma, Malikarjun and family, but soon proceed to
the second settlement. When we arrive, Durgamma is outside
with Anjapa who's having a bit of a tantrum. Upon our
arrival, the slumdwellers gather, and I make the introductions.
Durgapa has come out to lead the conversation, another
hit-and-miss exchange where he speaks Kannada and I Hindi,
but we still somehow make it work. Many questions about
our children, so Cecile looks for pictures in her wallet,
gorged with credit cards and stuff, the overflowing contents
eventually fall to the ground, which the slumdwellers help
us pick. She finds quite a few photos which fascinate
the slumdwellers. We exchange as much information as possible,
laughing at our miscommunication (Durgapa briefly thinks
we're marrying Madeleine!). The bicycle also proves
popular, we let Hanumanta do a few "rounds". Cecile,
after having been introduced to Durgamma's family, needs
to leave for Yoga, so Malikarjun, Hanumanta and I walk
her over to the white temple where Xavier will be waiting,
and where we're soon joined by Kiran.
After having dropped her, I stop by in the third
community. Gnamitra's brother (who had invited me for
food earlier this week) introduces me to his father,
a man who speaks some Hindi and English, and suffers
from a swollen leg. I'm eager to join Durgamma for the
final goodbye, but they remind me of my promise to take
pictures today of them in their best clothes. With the
Granddad's help, the little girls are outfitted with cute
pink dresses. Then it's Shuwamma's turn, the beautiful
girl also wearing a pink outfit. We return to the second
community. I have kept the bike from Cecile, and let
a few people try it.
-- Shuwamma, getting ready for the photo (3rd slum
community) --
-- Durgamma with the pot seller --
Nagamma cutting a tomato --
-- Giryamma examining the itinerant merchant's bangles --
-- The last meal --
-- Lakshmi --
Today is Holi the festival
of colors.
-- Holi, inside "little Roopa's" house, Aurohalli --
Time (including the run into Dunmore House): 1:27:23
Mileage: 9.7 Miles
In spite of the mid-morning heat, I run to Aurohalli,
through the villages where kids are playing with the
colors. Exploring a new trail through the woods,
I unexpectedly hear my name, "Philippe,
Philippe", these are kids whose names I don't even
know, who lead me to Aurohalli through the back
alleys. Roopa welcomes me, Philippe, I have something
for you, then she gently plasters my face with
orange. As if following that signal, we all play and play,
until we're all covered with colors, tagging children
and adults alike. Inside the houses, the saturated walls
and images of the Gods provide an admirable background
to our colorful faces.
-- Holi, with the children of Aurohalli --
-- Giryamma, the first picture ...
... and one of the last (with Lakshmi).