Training Run "Kannada Lesson" (14.2 Miles) -- 03/07/10
Saturday 03/06/10 --
PM - W. trail - Forest shortcut, by Whitefield School -
Nellurahalli tent community, then school - To the Dunmore
house slums - Then back through Nellurahalli - Up into
Pattandur - Back via ECC route.
Time: 0:56:41
Mileage: 6.3 Miles
Sunday 03/07/10 --
PM - Varthur - Gunjur (main road): 0:32:53
Left turn - Left turn again on a trail, through
scattered villages of unknown names - small trails
to the outskirts of Varthur (never remember the name
of this place!): 0:31:10
Kottur - Aurohalli: 0:22:25
Back the back way through trails leading to
Timanalli, then Ajgondanahalli - new trails through
Imadahalli, then back: 0:41:38
Time: 2:08:07
Mileage: 14.2 Miles
(Link to Saturday's photographs on Flickr)
(Link to Sunday's photographs on Flickr)
-- Slumdweller, Nellurahalli (Dunmore House 1st settlement)
--
It's getting much hotter, in fact, last night offered
little reprieve from the heat. It'll get hotter still.
On Saturday I run into the slums, happy to meet
Kiran and Malikarjun (who has been calling me every day,
we somehow manage to speak on the phone in Hindi!).
But there are a few stops along the way, first in
the tent community at the village entrance, then
in front of the school, where we organize a photo
shoot with a few of the early students.
In the slums themselves,
I have many photos to distribute, including the wonderful
series from Shuwamma. The men wish they could invite me
for breakfast, but they need to go to work.
In the second community, I find that Durgapa is leaving
too for a wedding, returning in 40 days. I hope he does come
back, as he has been one of my best adult friends here. We
move on to the first settlement, but Malikarjun's mother
has already left for work. They too are leaving, but
should come back in two weeks. We sit with the woman
at the end of the community, whose very happy with
last week's pictures.
-- Left: Tent Dwellers - Right: Yiramma (Nellurahalli slums)
--
On Sunday, I take the main road to Gunjur, like
I used to in the beginning, when I was too timid to
venture into the communities. The run starts on
a friendly note near Varthur, as a Rickshaw driver,
his vehicle full of passengers, invites me by
him on the driver's seat. I decline with a smile,
explaining I'm actually happy running believe
it or not. I take the beautiful
left turn, but unfortunately this road has been
recently paved. I'm running cautiously to protect
myself from the heat, which when I'm running with
the wind, could prove suffocating.
Before the first significant village,
I make a left on a small trail and meet a nice
group of children. Continuing the trails, partially
lost, I somehow make it to the outskirts of Varthur
after a more serious than usual dog alert, which
two women help me fend off. This gives me a chance
to meet the nice Varthur family, give them pictures,
and take new ones with the children, as usual letting
them take some themselves (one little girl in particular
is gleeful over this). The same is repeated in Kottur,
where I'm invited for Tea by this same man, Giresh
I think. He sends his little boy to buy me a cold
drink.
At the end of the village, a girl with a familiar
face asks me for a picture, and I ask her to pose by
a pond. Her name is Tanuja.
-- Giresh and his two sons, Kottur --
-- Tanuja, near Kottur --
Finally, after a long run (1h30 so far), I arrive
in Aurohalli. Roopa's street is particularly quiet,
as most families have left for a wedding. Roopa's
house is now under complete construction, and Roopa
and Neethra live across the alley, a smaller house
in which they invite me for food and drinks, while
Anjun goes take pictures of the workers. I first
sit in a very messy room on the usual plastic
chair, but we then decide to join the others
in the entrance, sitting on the floor. The
Grandmother and Neethra immediately point to me,
that I'm sitting on the floor without even a mat.
I pompously show off, speaking Hindi for no particular
reason, Jesa tum betti ho, Vesa main bhi bett sakta
houn (the way you sit, I can sit too). But as
has happened many times before, Monika
casually leans on to my leg which is more than
my lack of flexibility can handle. Even though
I've been constantly making efforts to properly sit,
this proves frustratingly difficult for me.
Little Monika retreats with a surprised look in her eyes,
probably wondering what's wrong with the French guy,
he seems strangely fragile.
I ask for
my first Kannada lesson, using one of the many
bilingual books that I've brought here over the
past few weeks. But this proves too hard for me,
so Roopa, Anjun and Monika collaborate to teach me
the Kannada alphabet, but we stop at the vowels,
this being more than enough. They've given me
a paper, also write their names (although
Monika only knows to write hers in English), and
carefully fold it for me to keep. Anjun, Monika
and I then ceremonously stand up while they sing
the national anthem, accompanied by Vandana who's
little face has appeared at the window.
Everyone is very
happy with their photos (I've distributed 230 photos
this weekend!), except Neetra who jokingly finds herself
too fat. I compliment her on her budding English, as we
exchange a few thank you's and welcome's.
I am stuck with my sole word of Telugu, Bagundi,
which invariably makes people laugh. Roopa says that
her father wants to buy her a computer, and asks if
I will be able to help her. Through the Indian summer,
during school break, she plans to live in Dodbalapuram
by her father.
I run back through the back trails again,
on the way witnessing a family cultivating silk worms
in the usual large round flat baskets. I still have
a few photos to give in Ajgondanahalli. A young man
helps me, walking me through the village to the right
family, and I enjoy a good chat with the locals.
I am charmed by this place as well, and plan to
return often.
-- Roadside tomato vendor, near Aurohalli -- Family, Ajgondanahalli --
Training Run "Kathariguppa school (I)" (13.6 Miles) -- 03/13/10
PM - Varthur - Gunjur (main road): 0:33:50
Left turn onto the paved road - Right turn for the first
time, at the tree - completely lost through small trails,
various roads, villages - Kathariguppa: 0:40:10
Unexpectedly find my way, back through trails, roads,
to Varthur - Along the lake - back: 0:48:54
Time: 2:02:54
Mileage: 13.6 Miles
-- In front of the KathariGuppa school --
(Link to complete photographs on Flickr)
I take the usual to Gunjur, make the left turn there into
the beautiful countryside. But from this road, I've decided
to venture out further for the first time, waiting for some
path or road to the right. I eventually opt for the part dirt
road that starts near the big tree. Luckily, a few meters
into it, I run into a girl walking with
a friend who calls to me, "Uncle, Photos?". By sheer
chance, this is one of the children from last week, who are
walking to school from their nearby village. Both marvel at
the photos from her and her friends, then hand most of them
back to me. They then start running to school, late perhaps,
one of those small government schools with colorful walls.
Later down the road is a small village, and from there
I venture out on the trail. I soon become completely lost,
not meeting anyone to ask directions from. Luckily it isn't
quite as hot today, and I feel pretty confident. I eventually
land on a deserted road which I decide to follow, and in the
middle of nowhere run into this Jnana Jyothi, Namma Sampradaya
charitable trust, apparently a spiritual center from where
I hear much chanting. I continue the road for a while through
the beautiful country, until finally I find another village.
Asking my way, I'm reassured to hear the usual
"straight-aahh" with a head nod, although I don't
know how far I've ventured out, and I'm worried about running
out of water (carrying only two bottles today). I stop by
a boy at an outside water point, ask him if I can fill up with
water. It turns out this is in front of a school, and as I
propose to take his pictures, a few of the other kids come
out as well, eventually followed by the teacher. She fortunately
speaks Hindi, and kindly invites me inside. It's a very small
village school, and no more than ten children our present.
The teacher has me sit by the blackboard, while the children
all sit on the ground. We take pictures, and I let the children
take turns operating the camera themselves. The teacher
offers me tea, then biscuits, but when I realize she's about
to give money to one of the kids buy biscuits, I stop her.
She neverthless gives me a few pieces of apple, which are
actually heavenly since I have not been carrying food today
and have been running for nearly 1h15. For fun, having
just learned in Aurohalli how to write the Kannada vowels,
I ask for chalk and draw them on the board, the children
correcting my prononciation. Before leaving, I show them
some of the prints I'm still carrying with me, explaining
that I'll do this for them too. Amazingly, they recognize
some of the kids on the photos, even though they weren't
taken here at all. Still lost and wanting to find this
village back, I ask the teacher to write its name:
Governament Loweger Primary School , she writes,
Place KathariGuppa, Anekal-Taluk, Bangalore = South 4.
I leave this friendly after asking one last time
the way to Varthur. The route from here is paved. It seems
to me I should take a left at some point, which I do. But
a few meters in, I finally recognize the place: Here's
that big tree, this is where I turned earlier! Confused,
I was about to go out for another loop. So after so much
turning I had actually landed in the village that I had
so far called the "first village after Gunjur"...
Having found my bearings, I retrace my steps and
take roughly the same way as last week, exploring a few
new trails along the way. In front of the large government
school Varthur, I see a few white uniformed silhouettes.
One of them happens to be Roopa. "You coming tomorrow?"
she asks. No, but I definitely plan to visit Aurohalli for Ugadi
on Tuesday.
-- Inside the KathariGuppa school --
Nellurahalli -- 03/14/10
With Jayanti, Madhavarao and Abhishek --
Time: 0:38:26
Mileage: 4.3 Miles
-- Madhavarao holding a baby -- Third Community children --
-- Gauramma and Tayamma, first community --
(Link to complete photographs on Flickr)
We meet in the Dunmore house area. Madhavarao seems to
have adopted one of the babies from the 1st settlement, as
the child yields to complete comfort in his arms. I manage
to convince young Gauramma and Tayamma to take pictures
with my camera, and eventually they take a liking to it.
Their mother explains to Jayanti that they've stayed in
this area so the two girls can continue to attend
the Nellurahalli government school.
In the third settlement, I finally realize thanks to Madhav
that Shuwamma's name is
actually Shivamma, duh! Abhishek and Jayanti clarify
with her, she's unable to attend school because she has to
take care of the little ones while the adults are at work.
I also ask for the little
girl's name whose photos have been so touching,
but keep forgetting it, until Jayanti and Abhishek
repeat several times, Yashoda, as Krishna's
adoptive mom, specifies Abhishek...
We spend some time talking to the third settlement
old woman, while the kids run around taking pictures with
my camera. I understand only about 30% of her Mumbai-style Hindi,
but luckily the others understand fully (she has lived in
Mumbai before moving to Bangalore). She complains about her
difficult life, moving heavy rocks that she carries on
her head. She then half teases me: Why have I
not brought a Saree for her, as we had discussed last Christmas?
Why am I instead taking the same pictures over and over again,
costing so much money?
I don't have an answer.
-- Tent dwellers, Nellurahalli --
Ugadi (Ajgondanahalli, Timandhalli, Aurohalli) -- 03/16/10
(Link to complete photographs on Flickr)
Today is Ugadi, the new year for Karnataka (and a few other
southern states).
Cecile and I have decided to walk to the village, using the back
trails.
In Ajgondanahalli, people are decorating the temple for
a pooja this afternoon. But what's most striking are the kids:
They've all bathed in oil, and are playing outside
half naked, their skin glistening.
In Timandhalli, we're called by a young man to his house, who
insists on offering us breakfast. This is large house, which
shelters a family of sixteen. We're served sweet
chapatis and a few assortments of rice and vegetables which
are absolutely delicious. We leave these nice people after
a few photos.
-- "Oily" children in Ajgondanahalli -- Inside the
big house in Timandhalli --
The rural trails lead us next to Aurohalli, where we first
visit Roopa. She still lives in a smaller house with Neethra,
waiting for hers to finish. (Roopa explains how the color
will be picked according to Astrology). We visit a few of the other
families, and are hard-pressed to refuse food
at every stop (the generous
hospitality of the villagers seems even higher today for
Ugadi, where I presume it's custom to share food with guests).
Here too, everyone has bathed in oil, and Monika in
particular is outside nearly naked, completely covered.
I too am treated to a treatment by Anjun, who vigorously
rubs the oil on my head, so strongly in fact that I nearly
lose balance after a while.
Jayanti is supposed to arrive at 4 but we decide to
call here much earlier for lunch. I pass the phone directly
to Roopa, knowing jokingly that she'll order Jayanti.
In the meantime, we take a walk towards the field. Along
the way, a new girl has befriended us, and insists that we
meet her mother, a young woman who lives in tiny quarters
in a bigger house. Eventually, Jayanti joins us.
I've always wanted to meet Shrikanth's family, liking
the boys profoundly good nature, but knowing from Roopa
that he's poorer still than the others. To access the lower
part of the village where he lives, we cross an open field
where some heavy construction is planned. I try to understand,
are they going to build some large housing development here?
I ask Roopa, is this good or bad for the village? - Bad,
she answers with no hesitation.
Shrikanth's invites us inside his house, a single room
with no furniture, where we're greeted by his mother. In
spite of our insisting that she go through no trouble, she
slips a few rupees to Shrikanth to get some mix and soda,
which makes me feel guilty. The whole band has come inside,
but we're soon overwhelmed by the heat. It's nearly lunchtime
and we should head back to Roopa's, but another man from
the next alley absolutely insists that we visit him as well.
In his house, although very small, is an aquarium and a working
TV. He at least speaks some Hindi, and serves us a sweet, sour
and bitter preparation typical for the new year.
Back at Roopa's we eat an excellent lunch prepared by
Neethra, and fortunately some of the kids eat with us as well,
instead of waiting for us to be done as is tradition.
-- School girls by the temple in front of the
government school, Nellurahalli --
Commute Run "Nellurahalli school" -- 03/18/10
Siddhapura - Tent community - Into Nellurahalli - Dirt trail to the
left - Dunmore house area - Into Nellurahalli small alleys - back
to the school - straight through Pattandur.
Time: 0:41:05
Mileage: 4.5 Miles
Wght: 154
(Link to complete photographs on Flickr)
First stop at the tent community at the entrance of Nellurahalli,
then through the dirt trail to the 1st community, in both places
I distribute pictures. I'm becoming friends with Akbar (tents)
and definitely with Tayamma and Gauramma (1st settlement). I talk
to their father, I've decided to open the gates to shopping with
the slum families, and propose that we go to Big Bazaar together.
There's a high chance that eventually every family will want to
go, but so what?
I then meet Kiran, today wearing a white shirt and looking
particularly clean. He takes the camera, leads me through
the settlement on the side, where I meet a new family,
Samuel, Nagamma and daughter Suchita. (Samuel explains his
name, "Christian", like everyone else in this commnity.)
Actually, Nagamma the mother
is still washing. A few too many pictures taken by Kiran then
I leave, but I eventually get called back. Nagamma is now ready
and I'm happy to meet them, learn their names. They tentatively
offer me food, but we pass over their offer. Then Kiran gestures
me to come to his house, and there we actually do eat food, rice
with Samba, with spicy chutney. I am made to sit inside on an
plank (probably serving as a bed) while family members sit on
the ground. I finally understand Kiran's family: Him, younger
brother Praveen, sister Lakshmi, mother Maryamma, and father
Anthony (had known him but not realized he was Kiran's father).
I ask for pen and paper to remember all this, Praveen writes
it all down for me in Kannada, then I write in Roman letters.
Anthony explains, they too are leaving, on good friday, also
in Gulburga.
-- Samuel and family, third settlement --
I then go through the Nellurahalli streets, find the school girls from last time after asking, give them their pictures (the Hindi-speaking woman has come out). On the way, I just about get bit by a dog, who didn't bark. I retrace my steps through the next alley, decided to go back to the school to give my final pictures. THere, I meet a lot of children, we sit on a stone parapet to distribute the pictures, then take quite a few more, some of the kids taking turns. I find Akbar (?) again from the tent community, and let him operate the camera first, then share it with others, careful to also involve girls. But a fight erupts between Akbar and another boy which I separate, Akbar cries, in a perhaps awkward gesture, I hug him to calm him down. When this is resolved we walk to the school itself, take a few more pictures, but the fight continues here, this time Akbar violently slaps another kid who in turn starts crying as well. I still try to bring peace o all this, but think that's perhaps "the way it is", Akbar needs to retaliate to keep his status in the community, and my plea for peace is unheeded, perhaps even not understood...
-- KathariGuppa school: Roll call -
Sharing the photos --
Training Run "Kathariguppa school (II)" (9.4 Miles) -- 03/20/10
PM - Varthur - Right turn in first village, sort of
inverted route from last week - Connecting to the road
from Gunjur - Kathariguppa: 0:43:06
Continue on the road past the school, still in reverse
from last week - Past the Ashram - onto TC Halli, Domasandra;
on Sarjapur road: 0:20:36
Sarjapur road, to Sarjapur: 0:20:28
Time: 1:24:12
Mileage: 9.4 Miles
Wght: 153
(Link to complete photographs on Flickr)
We need to go to Indus School this morning, so I decide to
run in that direction and be picked up somewhere
on the road by Xavier. I'd like
to visit again the Kathariguppa village school along the way,
so I've scribbled a vague map inspired by Google Maps.
It's quite hot again, after a few days of reprieve.
For some reason, the dogs have been unusually bothersome
lately, perhaps it's the season for aggression.
I was starting to no
longer carry rocks, but am
now right back into the habit. I nearly got bit in Nellurahalli
this week, and am more often confronted, the dogs getting closer
than usual. This happens again today a few times, particularly
on the dirt trail from Varthur, by a house where I already
had problems before. But as often, a woman comes out
to help me with the aggressive dogs, throws rocks
of her own at them and all is safe, just a lot of barking.
I easily find my way to Katirgupe (however you want to
spell it), find the tiny school from last week.
I'm invited in. The teacher sends one of the kids
to get a plastic chair for me from another room.
At some point, I sit on the floor like all of them,
but for some reason, the teacher orders me back to my
seat, as if sitting on the floor weren't proper for me.
I distribute the pictures from last week to amazing reactions!
After some time, the teacher hands me back the prints,
but I emphatically give them back,
"Mere lie nahi hai, aapke lie...", and everyone
looks more delighted still. Like last week, she offers me tea, and
without me having time to protest gets money from her purse
and sends a kid to buy cookies from the village store. Once
things settle down, she continues the roll call, each child
answering in turn. She tells me the school hosts thirty
students normally, out of which ten are out today, due
to bad fevers (boukhar).
She sends the little boy out again,
this time to buy blank sheets of paper, and proceeds to
correct copies (is she buying the paper herself?). Poor
children, she explains, all from this village. I promise
to bring something next time. We'd like to organize an
official school photo, but next week may not work for me.
Finished with tea and cookies, I
resume the run, soon passing the point where I had
reached this road last week, into the unknown.
It's rural out here and fairly empty, until I eventually
reach another bigger village where I'm again greeted by
barking dogs. I smile at the villagers, "Naigullu"...
Here is another much bigger two stories government school,
where I take a few quick pictures of children at the
balcony. I then call Cecile
not quite knowing where I am, but soon after, find
that I've actually made it to Sarjapur road. Running on the
busier road
isn't as pleasant with all the traffic and heat,
but as I'm arriving
into town, I'm joined by Xavier and that's the end of the
run for today.
Sunday 03/21/10 --
PM - Imadahalli trails - Ajgondanahalli -
Timandhalli - Aurohalli: 0:41:29
Back same way - Explored staying even longer on the
trail through Imadahalli, which leads to Varthur lake: 0:36:57
Time: 1:18:27
Mileage: 8.7 Miles
It may not be a good idea to run again today, running long
on consecutive days (not by the book!). It's again hot,
especially since I leave closer to 9am. I try out a new
way through Imadahalli, taking a right after the Shiva temple
and from there on through small trails, bypassing the paved
road. Brief stop in Ajgondanahalli, beautiful pictures by
the big tree near the temple.
Past Timandhalli, on the small trail, I pass a man
carrying a heavy squarish bag on his back. He fortunately
speaks Hindi, and explains that he's selling clothes through
the villages. I tell him the trail leads to Aurohalli,
somewhat proud to know my way around these remote parts.
Shortly after leaving him, my glance catches an
enormous green body slithering through the brush,
at the side of the trail. I stop dead, frozen at the sight
of what must have been a large snake. The man catches up
with me, we reassure ourselves that the snake must have
run away, normally afraid of people. This conversation
happens all in Hindi, today feeling very easy, such a
source of satisfaction (in contrast with the many
infuriating times when I barely understand when talked to!).
In Aurohalli, I am greeted by Roopa and Neethra. Roopa
is about to leave for Dodbalapura for the summer, as school
has just ended and won't resume before june 1st. We sit
in the house (still the temporary one) and after writing
the Kannada letters that I've learned ask to be taught
more (after this, only one group of letters left).
Soon after, Roopa's father arrives on a motorcycle,
after a two hour journey, to take Roopa back. Busy with
the Kannada, I don't get up for his entrance, a gesture
I fear might be disrepectful. As it turns
out, many of the kids are about to disperse in various
villages for the break. Today I purposefully refuse food
from Neethra so that I can visit Anjun's family, whom
I feel I've neglected. She serves me rice, and as I refuse
more, she jokingly pokes my stomach, indicating that I'm
clearly not eating enough, then invites me to stay in
for a whole week! (With Anjun translating).
Outside, the "very beautiful woman" (what is her name?)
shows us pigeons she's keeping by the house, for pets. She
also insist that I talk to her brother on the phone, a
Christian priest by the name of Jona, but we're unable
to reach him (people in the village are all Hindu from what
I can tell). Asked by Ambuja whether I'm Christian too, I
answer Jewish, which she doesn't understand.
"Yehudi", I specify using the Hindi (and Hebrew)
word. I cannot interpret her reaction.
I cannot resist Little Roopa's insistence
to visit her house
as well, so her, Monika and Chittu drag me over
to the next alley,
where we take pictures with a small lamb inside the
saturated green house. Anjun and the boys say goodbye,
reproducing the hug gesture from last week, and leave
to graze the sheep.
-- Little Roopa --
By the time I run back it's getting close to noon, under intense yet manageable heat. I explore the little trail from this morning even further, which leads me through the back of Ozone, following a small irrigation stream. A beautiful peasant woman and her boy warn me to look out for snakes (she unfortunately will refuse to take a picture, probably unhappy with her simple appearance). I eventually reach a wide sun scorched plain which leads to the Varthur bridge, opening another alternate route to get to the fields.
-- The "children by the lake", Pattandur Agrahara --
The children by the lake, Pattandur -- 03/25/10
PM - W. Trail - DUnmore house - 3rd community - Nellurahalli school -
Pattandur lake trail - ITPL
Time: 0:38:02
Mileage: 4.2 Miles
Wght: 152.5
(Link to complete photographs on Flickr)
I am eager to meet Shivamma's family, after yesterday's fiasco.
I excuse myself for not having been able to come. We agree to
push to this Sunday morning, right before they leave.
But as I'm leaving, Praveen catches up with me, by the temple,
he speaks hesitantly, but I understand he's asking for shoes
now. And then Shivamma's uncle comes to, calling me back,
1000 he says, drawing on his hand, and asks me if I could contribute
to his trip on Sunday.
I feared that with these trips to Big Bazaar our dynamic might change.
So far, our relationships had been simple and pure, but I sense
we're at the tipping point where it could become based on interest
and charity, an unfortunate evolution. People have welcomed me so
far with little afterthought, but will it now be motivated by interest?
I still stand behind these gifts that we've been making recently,
but have we gone overboard? These thoughts depress me, as I head
towards the school next.
I have brought some photos from last time. I'm just a little early
so only few kids have gathered. We share the pictures, but as often
happens, some of them get grabbed by people whose relationship with
the photo isn't all that clear. One young woman in particular, who
fortunately speaks beautiful clear Hindi, takes a few of the photos,
professing all these people are friends, but eventually disappears
with them, leaving me doubtful whether she'll actually distribute
them. With the kids, I confirm with a photo the name of my best
friend in the tent community, "Akbar", he who had fought last time.
"Muslim", the kids indicate, confirming what I suspected. This is
a welcome development, as so far I have not engaged with the Muslim
community at all. I walk away with some of the boys, who apparently
are going back home to show their pictures (are they going to
skip school because of this?). On the way, we talk to a few other
kids who are playing by the gutter, trying to fish with plastic
cups the many tadpoles who are swimming in the filth. I feel still
heavy with doubt as I run towards ITPL, through Pattandur. There
I decide to make the detour throught the lake trail.
I meet two familiar silhouettes ahead of me on the trail. These
are indeed the two school kids whose pictures I had taken some
time back, and whose prints I've been carrying ever since. They
recognize me too. As I'm looking for their pictures, we pass
through the pictures of the "homeless children of Pattandur",
whom I've given up all hope of meeting again, yet I'm still carrying
their pictures everyday, just in case. To my surprise, they recognize
them, indicate that they live by the entrance of the trail. I retrace
my steps, ask again at the little shop hut. The man confirms,
points to a house, to which I courageously walk.
Indeed by the house playing on a mound of dirt are two of the
children. THey don't see me at first but their faces light up
as soon as they recognize me. I hand them over those remaining
photos that I've been carrying with me for so long. Excitedly,
the run into their community, a most miserable set of tents in
the back of a small house. These kids are particularly poor,
their filthy clothes barely covering them (one boy's pants,
kept together with strings and clips,
leaves his butt uncovered). But they so naturally
engage with me, happy to shake my hand, happy to smile, not at
all timid or scared. An older man, perhaps the owner
of the house, does speak Hindi, and invites me in, explaining
these are very poor people. I step into this community
and try to communicate, but this particular group only speaks
Kannada and Tamil (yet another language!). There are traces
of Hindi with one of the tent dwellers, and we manage to spend
a nice moment together, as usual bonded by photography.
I leave feeling elated at the fortune of
having found these children after all, knowing I'll return here
often. The joy on the children's faces stays with me, wiping
the earlier melancholy.
-- Shiwamma and Victory at Big Bazaar --
Trips to Big Bazaar (Kiran & Shiwamma leave) -- 03/28/10
(Link to complete photographs on Flickr)
Tuesday 03/23/10 -- Dunmore house
Time: 0:32:21
Mileage: 3.8 Miles
Early morning, around 6:15, quiet in the slums, walk up to Kiran's
shack, they're up, preparing breakfast. Standing at the door, suffocating
smoke. I arrange plans to take them to Big Bazaar that evening.
At 6:30, we come back, pick them up. Gnanmitra's brother, announces
that Shivamma will not come back from the village, leaving this Sunday.
I don't have the reflex to ask her to come along. I immediately regret
it, but see the opportunity close down as we walk then drive away.
I've been extremely tired today. At big bazaar, we repeat what will
soon be a routine, the vendor recognizes us, she points out that
last time was already a Laskhmi. Exhausted, my Hindi is falling apart.
The experience does wake me up though. Upon parting, Kiran asks
why would we pay so much money for just a ball, where you could buy
it for 10th the prize from a roadside vendor. Xavier sort of answers
for us, that this ball's quality will endure.
-- Breakfast "at the Kiran's" - Lakshmi and Mariamma
at Big Bazaar --
Wed 03/24/10 -- Dunmore house
Time: 0:30:03
MIleage: 3.5 Miles
Stop in the 3rd community. I earnestly propose to Gnamitra's brother
to take Shivamma and Yashoda for shopping tonight, and feel so much
better for having done so. Kiran's family invite me for tea, which
Kiran cools down by pouring from one cup to the other repeatedly
as is custom. I refuse food. Kiran happily shows the ball, still
wrapped in its plastic bag. What a contrast from yesterday, I feel
so much more alert.
-- Shiwamma and Yashoda in Jayanti's car, at Big Bazaar --
Sunday 03/28/10 -- Dunmore house, Big Bazaar, then Aurohalli
PM - W. trail - Nellurahalli tent community - through the dirt
trails into the Dunmore house area - 3rd community: 0:20:30
Big Bazaar - through Pattandur - Whitefield (got lost) -
Up the hill - Down through small streets, trails (got lost
again) - Imadahalli - Ajgondanahalli - usual trails through
Timandahalli to Aurohalli: 1:13:52
Time: 1:34:23
Mileage: 10.5 Miles
We have decided to take Shivamma’s family to Big Bazaar as well,
before they too leave for the Raichur area later today.
I meet Jayanti by the temple, from where we walk into the
Dunmore House area. I’m surprised to see beautiful Vandana come out
of one of the shelters, back with her husband after months of absence.
While Shivamma’s family is getting ready, we spend some time “at the
Kiran’s”. Lakshmi puts on her clothes from Big Bazaar, we spend time
with her figuring out how to tighten her pant, which is a bit too big
(a good thing). Anthony hands us over a carefully folded piece of paper,
full of Kannada script written in several different directions.
The instructions to their village, he explains inviting us there, which
can have someone translate for us. I preciously put the paper away.
When finally everyone is ready, we set off, Simon and the three girls
(Shiwamma, Yashoda and Victory). I point out Simon’s slight limp;
showing a wound on the sole of his foot, he explains that he has stepped
on glass. Kiran, Laskhmi and Praveen have accompanied us to the white
temple where the car is parked. A little tearful, Lakshmi has to accept
that she can’t come with us today, having had her turn. We all pack in
Jayanti’s car, talking along the way. It appears that Shiwamma won’t
attend school in her village either, busy working in the field. All
members from this group of communities come from the Raichur/Dulbarga
area it seems, a poor agricultural area of Northern Karnataka where the
land isn’t fertile enough to sustain people all year long. Like Anthony,
Simon invites us to visit, where I could see again his brother Gnanmitra,
one of the first to have opened his door to me in the slums. Simon would
love for us to take pictures of his “beautiful mango trees”.
We pretty much have our routine down in Big Bazaar, although we
still manage to first go to the wrong floor. The woman vendor now knows
us well, and today, as the store is particularly quiet (we’ve come for
the opening at 10), she accompanies us the whole way. We let the girls
choose their dresses, then take care of Simon, who for once opts to buy
western pants (instead of a lungi) and even tries them on. Shiwamma
drives the cart the whole way, looking as beautiful as ever. The little
ones Yashoda and Victory have this same sad and distant look that I’ve
so often seen on them, here feeling particularly overwhelmed, clinging
often to their father. They take more time to choose than usual,
contradicting our earlier thought that shopping for these people is
much faster than it would be for us. I feel warmed up by Shiwamma’s
occasional smile, as she discovers new things in the store. This time
Jayanti offers the clothes. We’re making friends with the woman vendor,
she leaves us her name and Madhavarao runs to customer service
to put in a recommendation for her.
-- Simon, Victory and Shiwamma at the cash register --
But I am running late. We have an elaborate plan today. I need
to run to Aurohalli by midday where I’ll meet Xavier, as we’re taking
Vandana and her friends to Adheena’s house to celebrate her birthday.
Even Roopa has come back from Dodbalapuram for the occasion. So I
decide to leave everyone at the store, letting Jayanti take Simon’s
family back, and run from there. We part in front of Jayanti’s car,
shaking hands several times.
The streets are busier than ever today with congregations of people
gathered for the elections. Through Pattandur, on the lake trail, I meet
again the “children of the lake”, playing in the dirt, looking
particularly dirty today. Encouraged by their happiness, we take a few
more pictures together, and incidentally, I find that in spite of
wearing a dress, the little girl is actually a boy (his brother has
lifted the dress up). I decide to take a different route through the
upper section of Whitefield, up the hill and down into the fields, but
get lost several times, annoyingly running back into the main road,
having to retrace my steps until I find my bearings.
midday, it’s very hot, although a slight breeze can still be felt.
I’m stopped a few times by voters, through one of the lower villages
near Imadahalli, a woman pulls up to me in a Rickshaw, first asking
me if I have voted, then if I am Christian (no to both questions).
She’s simply curious yet pleased to see me in such a place. I finally
recognize the road to Ajgondanahalli, where I stop briefly to give the
Ugadi pictures (the kids covered in oil on their tricycles get an
enormous laugh). I ask for a drink at the tiny village shop, but
in the absence of “cold drinks”, the woman kindly offers me water to
fill up my bottles. From there, careful to control my heat and heart
rate, it’s a straight run to Aurohalli through the trails, where Xavier
- "Car Uncle", as the kids have started calling him -
has been waiting for me with the car at Roopa’s house. Vandana is ready
for her birthday in a beautiful outfit.
-- The "children by the lake", Pattandur --